‘Every Culinary Artist Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on Roll of London’s Top Food Spots.

When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.

Heather Alvarez
Heather Alvarez

A software engineer and tech writer passionate about AI ethics and open-source projects, with over a decade of industry experience.